The journey to Ecuador took about 36 hours. The first bus from Pisco to Lima fair hurtled its way north. The speed was also noted by a fellow foreign traveller. We chose to ignore it, the best thing to do in this case, the only thing to do unless you want to be left on the highway. However at one of the many mandatory police stops, a loud bang, like a gun shot rang out and blue/black smoke puffed out from our right back side. To my and the other passengers surprise the driver promptly drove off vack to the HWY while there was a loud and getting louder clunking under our feet. This seemed not to matter one jot as the driver sped up until there was another loud bang and grating noise, my heart jumped into my mouth as I expected the axel to come through the floor, and myself and other passengers started to yell out and bang on the windows for the driver to stop. All the men got off, either to piss or to be curious. Fianlly I went to look out the window, as they pulled off the tyre, I was horrified to see a HUGE hole and rip in it. I gues the driver just thought he'd rely on the other one all the way to Lima. The tyre was soon changed and we were once again hurtling to Lima! Once there I managed to get a bus from Lima all the way to the northern peru border town of Tumbes for only US$13.50, all I had to do was wait around for a couple of hours - no problem. So Bus #2 was a pleasant surprise - seat to myself, no-one next to me and as we were on an 18 hour journey I was wrapped. My good fortune was not to last, and after 3 movies and falling asleep, at midnight the bus filled up and I had to go back to just one seat for the rest of the journey. I had an annoying taxi driver trying to get me to pay him to the border from Tumbes, he wanted US$8, but my book said is was no more than a $1 in a collective taxi-van. I tried to be blunt with him, but he was a tryer. When I asked at the bus ticket desk , the lady explained that it was only 30 cents in the vans that went past out the front of the terminal all the time. So bus #3 (minivan really) hung about Tumbes filling up with passengers for Aguas Verdes (border market), a traffic cop decided to ride with us, and I got to see police corruption firsthand as he reprimanded another driver for being stopped where he shouldn't be. The man just walked up to our van made small talk, paid the cop some money, they shared a joke then we went on our way and he stayed parked where he was. The van didn't stop at immigration so I had to back track spending my last coins on a motorbike taxi. Exit stamped from Peru I argued that I had no money left for them to take me back to the Ecuadorian border, the guard must have had a lapse of kindness as he ordered a taxi driver to take for free - I paid him with a mandarin and a packet of buiscuits I had. Walking accross the border into the busy market area of Huaquilla I was immediately befriended by a young guy who said he would show me where the buses left from and asked me what I thought of Peru. I told him fine, except the false people who only wanted to be nice to you to get your money. He said he understood, but as I went to get on the bus, he stood there asking me for money!!! I couldn't believe it. But on Bus #4, not anywhere as flash as the other buses I had been on, but still a goer, I once again became familiar with hurtling, this time through lush tropical green and fertile land. The difference between the two countries was stark, as we headed along with the windows open to let in a breeze in the clamy air. Banana land, and bonito signs everywhere, small towns, coffee and cocoa beans drying in the sun and a string of people getting on the bus to sell you something and then get off again. I bought some delicious coconut to celebrate my arriving in a new land.

Guayaquil was my first Ecuadorian stop. Capital of Ecuador. I got to the bus station tired, hot, but content. I knew to take a taxi to town from the terminal would be expensive (US$3) but after all the buses I couldn't face another one, especially as I didn't know where I was going. So I bit the bullet and paid the cash for the taxi to the hostel that was twice as expensive as expected. Happy though to be settled for a day or two, I showered (cold water but that was fine - it was humid - delicious), checked out telly, while cooling off, then wandered about the city for a while. I felt like the only foreigner there, the Ecuadorians seemed a nonchalent bunch, not a tourist town.

Montañita on the other hand was touristville! Out to the coast I went for some sun and beach, by bus from Guayaquil which dropped me off on the corner of nowhere, then I was picked up by another, backpack slung on the top. I was poached from the road by Ricky for Hostal de Ricky, a nice bungalow place, top floor, huge bed, own hammock, US$4. Nice guys at the hostal, surfers through and through, infact you would have a hard time believing they were Ecuadorian. Ricky and Charlie took me to 'the point' where all the surfers did there stuff, drove me around the area to other surf spots, shared lunch and breakfast, had drinks at the bar, and generally made sure I was alright. I inturn took video of them all surfing which they loved. Now, you know that I had come to the beach for sun, and had been sorely disappointed when I arrived in misty, cloudy conditions, but determined, I waited, and a day and a half later I was sore for another reason! What a beautiful day, convinced the sun couldn't be worse than that in NZ I didn't slap on the old sunblock for the first couple of hours and just bathed in the heat. What a dick! I am in Ecuador = Equator - you can't get any closer to the sun!! Yes, that's right, I burned, I burned laughingly bad, especially the sunglasses line - the rest was painful, but not obvious. (Now I am hideously peeling all over) That night I went to a beach party - full moon rave - WOW, Thailand or Taiwan revisited, there I was back in Hat Rin, or Kenting, dancing in the sand till the sun came up and drove me back to my bungalow for mandatory sleep before a long trip to Quito. What a day, sun, swimming, new friends, what a night, dancing, drinking, new friends.

The journey to Quito was painful because I was burned, I was unbelievably tired, I was pissed off with myself for leaving my rainjacket behind, I had had to wait 5 hours in a stuffy smelly bus station, they played unneccesarily loud music the whole 8 hour bus ride, I arrived in Quito at 5.30am and it was raining, inhospitable and too dark (=too dangerous) to walk to my hostel, but too close for a taxi to take me, and when I asked they police offered no help. Times like these make me wonder very hard about my motives. But once in my hotel (I walked) I slept, the sun came out, and there was a hot shower :o) Quito's old town, where I was staying, really is a walk back through time. Old colonial buildings, impressive churches, cobble stone roads, red tile rooves, and dodgey characters all over. New town is not so impressive except to say the part full of foreigners is exactly that, studying mainly, Ecuador is a cheaper option for Spanish study. But generally Quito didn't impress me, neither did the people, the city was a lot dirtier than I expected and a lot more run down. I did take a trip out of the city to the Middle of the World. the equator, very touristy and as I found out out there, not actually the middle of the world, but 300 meters south according to GPS. Oh well. The one redeeming factor of new town was the fantastic archeological museum. Wow, amazing. According to my guide and other sources, Quito is apparently quite dangerous at night in certain areas, in fact where I was staying was right round the corner from a notoriously bad place, hence the hesitation in walking to my hostel the first day in the dark, and I must admit that later at night, places did seem to become deserted, and I heard some horrible stories.

I decided not to stay too long in Quito, and head south to a place I had heard good stories and review about. First stop Latacunga, friendly enough town, and launching point for the Saquisilí market and Lago Quilatoa. I´d met Philippa and Dave on the bus who had similar plans to me, so we all headed off to the famous market early Thursday morning. This market is supposedly the most important indigenous and farming market in the country and we were in for a treat. First of all we asked directions to where they sold all the chickens etc and came across a square that brigght with the colours of the indigenous people selling and buying produce. Their ponchos, scarves, skirts all bright rainbow colours, buying or selling chickens, guines pigs (they eat it here) rabbits, cats, fruit, vegetables and grains. You can't believe the number of woman who have small children tied onto their backs or holding onto their skirts in this country. They say the population of 13 million will double by 2028. It is incredible. Done with looking at poor chickens tied up by their feet, or squeeling guinea pigs in bags, we asked where the bigger animals were sold. Three blocks out of town we came to the paddock with pigs, some dragging their owners about, and piglets, ponies and donkeys, cattle, cows with calves and that were lactating on the grass and dirt, and sheep, goats, and llamas. All being looked at, bought and sold, and shoved into or onto trucks or buses. (yep they actually get tied onto the top of buses). A stall of pigs heads what for bewidered us. Another square, more produce, the smells or the fruit and veges and animals all mixing with the stalls that were cooking fresh guinea pig, or intestine sausage, the assault to the senses was at times overwhelming, and eventually we headed back to seek transport to Lago Quilatoa.

Lake Quilatoa is a crater lake, in a volcano some 3800 meters above sea level. We were lucky enough to find the only direct bus for the day. And after procuring a bit of fruit, we headed up and up, through valleys and around hills and mountains that amazed us with the amount they had been cultivated. Every ridge we crossed the hills were cultivated as high up and as low down as was humanly possible. At one stage of our bumpy journey, the driver and ticket guy who looked 15 swapped places, and my nerves frayed a bit. However we got there perfectly safely and checked into the bare hostel. It was freezing up there, but a quick trip up to the crater edge revealed the lake. It was stunning. A beautiful deep blue in the middle that on the edges, turned turquise and bright blue to white, with a little afternoon sun seemed to turn flourescent. The crater rose above the waterline, all craggy but green with vegetation in most parts. I was speechless. What a beautiful sight, I drank it in with my eyes. We decided to descend to the lakes edge, and it was a quick trip down, sand and braken. The water is very alkaline, and nothing lives in it except some algae. But it is so clear, and looked so inviting to swim in. The white of the rock underneath would fall away quickly as it got deep, apparently 250 meters deep. Not wanting to leave the sandy beach, but aware of the 300 meter climb back up and the cold, we headed back up, taking it easy, having breaks so as not to let the altitude affect us too much. I was not able to enjoy the evening as much as I'd have wished as a migrane set in. The next morning though I felt much better and said bye to Philippa and Dave, then set off for a walk around the crater with my guide Rambo (hostal dog - Alsation, mad but effective). The lake was still amazing and I felt very lucky to be there and to have seen it. Transport back to civilisation was by pickup truck then bus.

I stayed one more night in Latacunga, because there was a huge festival in Pujili, nearby the next day. There was a big parade with 90 or so dance groups entering it, from traditional costume, to jungle dancers, to coastal themed or Galapagos island dancers. I watched from my park bench that I had come early to get, about 30 or so groups go past in about 3 hours. The parade had been started by the president of Ecuador himself, so that was pretty special. I got befriended by Henry a Commander in the military and his dog Mario (boxer) there to protect the President. It was a bit strange chatting to a guy all dressed up in combat uniform, maroon beret on, maching gun slung accross his back and many other wespons in his uniform, with his killer dog, leaning up dribbling on my leg, surreal. However he had to go off to work and I was left to watch the parade in the sun. There were loads of people there, families out together, teenagers getting drunk with their friends, old folk enjoying the colourful dancers and bands. The atmosphere was very festive, and I kinda wished I could stay all day, but aware that I had to get moving on, and that the sun was burning down on my unprotected skin, I grabbed some street food for lunch, and headed back to Latacunga to find a bus to Baños.

And here I am in Baños, another backpacker mecca. There are climbing trips, jungle trips, waterfall trips, volcano trips, horse riding, canyoning, rafting, kayaking... etc. I took a bike ride yesterday from here down to Rio Negro, about 30 kilometers, but mostly downhill, and mostly unpaved, and therefore a bit muddy because of the rain, but a beautiful ride none the less, through a lush tropical valley, I stopped to admire the many waterfalls, accompanied by a couple of dutch girls, took a ride in a glorified flying fox accross the river far below, eek, and ended up having my lunch by the river swollen by the rains on the verge of the Amazon rain forest, surrounded by green and the odd bright flower and butterflies everywhere. Brilliant day, well worth the mud and occasional rain. Unfortunately the following day rained and rained and as I wasn't able to go for my horse ride to the mouth of the smoking volcano, I decided not to waste the day and headed onto Riobamba.

The beginning of our bus ride to Riobamba certainly had me wondering if it wasn't better just to get off and pay again for the next bus, we were leaning dangerously around the corners, but as I am tight on cash, and the next bus couldn't actually be guaranteed to be better, I just held tight with white knuckles and was glad to be rushed off the bus a couple of hours later. Feeling kinda glad to that we slowed to pick up so many passengers on the way, slower was safer. Riobamba, another old colonial town, with red tiled rooves and cobbled streets, and a cathedral that looks like it should be somewhere near the Alamo, I was glad to be here and determined to do some of the stuff nearby. Hence the next day I took and early morning ride up the Mount Chimborazo, the highest at 6310 metres in Ecuador. We were able to drive up to 4800 metres, and then walked to next 200 metres up to the 2nd Refuge at 5000 meters above sea level. Can you believe that walk took us 40 minutes!! To go 200 metres!! But in altitude, the taking of each step makes you dizzy, and tired. Still we got there and the cloud cleared long enough to have a good look around the mountain and all the snow, and even the bare valleys spreading out below. Adventurers we are we even climbed another 50 meters to a small lake (read pond) before descending in silence. Today I went on the famous 'Nose of the Devil' ride. Which consists of you getting up by 5.30am to queue with a whole bunch of other foreigners for a prestigeous place on top of one of two trains (that are actually converted buses) for a four hour ride through the countryside and farmlands culminating in a zigzag down and back a sheer rock face known as the 'Devil's Nose' where many railworkers lost their lives trying to get the track laid. The zigzag was breif albeit amazing railway engineering, but the ride through the countryside was fantastic, dramatic, rewarding, fields of green, brown, black, and cream covering all sorts of terrain, with the colourful blankets wrapped around the shoulders of the farmers tending to their grazing stock or working their land, even in the cold and rain, I took the train all the way back to Riobamba where I am now. Tomorrow I will go to a market day of only indigenous farmers, and then onto the city of Cuenca.