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Awesome Argentina, and Challenging Chile

It has been almost 2 months since I updated my website and the weight of this fact and amazing amount of awesome stories I have to tell you has been giving me the procrastination fever so bad, I have had to resort to eating loads of brilliant bolivian chocolate to make myself feel better...

But the time has finally come for me to start recounting, belly chocolate full, I need to go all the way back to the Iguacu falls in Argentina.

I remember being astounded at the natural beauty of the falls on the Brazilian side, and then being told by absolutely everyone that it was better on the Argentinian side. It was hard to believe, and I set off that baking hot day full of expectations of grandure and also expecting to be let down, but what I actually experienced has to be one of the most impressing things I have seen to this date. At the end of a day walking around the picturesque and astounding falls, getting soaked jet boating under them, hiking amongst them and swimming in the water getting eaten by the fishes, you walk out accross the river on a long metal walk way ending up standing right beside the Devils Throat...,

 
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Wow, look at this, I finally got some pictures up online - although random they are. Click on `more` below to see pics from Carnival, Curitiba Rainforest Train, Iguazu Falls, Buenos Aires, Ushuaia, El Chaltén...
 
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Beautiful Booty in Brazil!!!

My flight from London to Rio was on one of the best planes I have ever had the pleasure to find myself on. Business and First Class were of equal proportions to economy, which was so plush that although there was a line up of movies I desperately wanted to see all of, I slept for about 10 of the 12 hours we were in the air!!

Once on the ground in Rio, I decided to head straight up north, and bought myself a plane ticket immediately to Salvador de Bahia. Wow, what a temperature shift! Above 30 degrees celcius every day. One day on the beach it was so hot, I ´had´ to sit under an umbrella or I think I would have literally fried crispy. Salvador has a much larger black population as it is in the north, and their influence is everywhere, in the music, food, attitudes, art... etc. I went to a concert by the drumming group Oludum, and they were fantastic. Inside the concert a group of dancers were doing some moves together, one would lead and then everyone else would follow, and they would take turns, they were great dancers and it made me a little excited about carnival coming up.

My experience in Salvador de Bahia was unfortunately tainted. On the same evening as the concert there was a street party in Pelorinho, music and people partying everywhere, and in one of the throngs I got mugged...

 
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Coming home for the summer...

Well, well, life is never dull. Whole change of plans on the menu. Things have been going a 'bit' awry in London for me, but recently took a huge dive for the worse, and I made a quick decision to not go back to South America just yet. As you may remember I had been in two minds about the trip back for so long, secretly not really looking forward to the next leg, as it is probably the most adventurous for me alone, but indoubtedly the most scary and risky too - troubled but expensive Venezuela into northern Brazil, jungle trekking in the remote brazilian jungle, and then taking a boat down the amazon. However when my heart took a dive here, I decided I just wasn't prepared mentally to do it just now. SO..... I will be heading back to NZ this friday 7th November, to recoup and spend the summer in sunny Nelson with the family. I would have liked to have stayed in London, but with all the recent set backs, I think the place is trying to tell me that now is not a good time for me to be here. Plus, cold winter in London or hot sunny summer in NZ???? I know what most of you would choose. :o)

 
 
 
Lost in London
Today is September 26th. I have taken a half day at work so that I can put some attention into email etc. I've now been in London for 2 1/2 months, wow, how the time has flown. I have worked, played, moved house, twice, celebrated my 30th, met up with old mates, and new, made some new friends, gotten drunk, gotten stoned, gone to a musical, been to the movies, am going to get pole dancing lessons, been to a football match, cried, laughed, screamed, despaired, giggled, goo goo-ed and gaa gaa-ed, ridden in a bus, train, tube, black cab, car, on a scooter, in a limo, and essentially lost myself within London and my friends and family here. I leave again on... 
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Personable People in Peru

Before we get back to Peru, I want to tell you about the rest of my time in Ecuador. I think Ecuador has been my favourite country to travel around in so far out of the three, Chile, Peru, and Ecuador. I met Peruvian DJ, Pirhana, on the beach in Montañita who has been living in Cuenca scratching disks for a while, so when I arrived in Cuenca, I emailed him up, and I was on the night circuit before I could say 'dance'. Out at a local salsateca Thursday till 4am, then clubbing Friday night till 6am, then just to pull in a hat trick I ...

 
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Baby Pheonix
Oh, I cried, when I finally found out that Natascha had a baby girl, 5 pounds 9, on July 1st 2003 after 18 hours labour. All is well, as you can see. I'm so proud.

With Uncle Johnny

 
 
 
Escape to Ecuador

You really have no idea how noisy Peru is until you go there. There is even a warning in the 'Dangers and Annoyances' section of my guide book, just after they warn you against the high theft, robbery and mugging rate in Peru. And with reason. I think Nazca was the final straw for me.

Walking down Nazca's streets busy with cars, buses and taxis, all beeping and honking at everyone - this is how they solicit there passengers - it is goddamned annoying. I suppose the locals are used to it, but after, the shops blaring music, street sellers yelling at the top of their lungs, buses with sound systems pumped up to distortion with odd latin music or spanish dubbed videos, kids annoying you to buy something, and traffic incessantly beeping or passing in a cloud of fumes, the 'noise' started to wear through my nerves. So, after I arrived in Pisco, which was admittedly slightly quieter in the beep department, but, was grey, misty, cold, and smelled of fishmeal, I decided I needed a change of scenery, climate and country.

Click on the More for just that

 
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Pauses in Peru

Did you know that Peru is currently in a State of Emergency? And that police have absolute rights and freedom of speech has been revoked in the street?

Well, indeed it is. The country is in a bit of turmoil as there are strikes by the teachers, farmers, judiciary system, and the hospitals are threatening. The biggest protest is from the teachers and my first experience of this was in my first Peruvian port of call, Arequipa. It might´ve actually have been sooner, but for the fact that crossing the border from Chile to Peru, I got up quite early and headed out to the taxi station with a traveller friend, so that we could at least get to Arequipa in one day. The border crossing was fairly exciting for me being my first one.

Click on the More for just that

 
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Again in Argentina and Brilliant Bolivia

Upon arriving at the bottom of the world in the land of fire (Tierra del Fuego) I took a day to check out the place before I decided when I would leave again. I thought it would be nice to stay for 2-3 days, but as often happens with travelers you forget what day it is and before I even knew what was happening it was Saturday afternoon - with nothing open to organise my way out, and then Sunday, same story, and then Monday, a public holiday, which was the day I wanted to leave, and full flights after that! Now you probably think, what´s a day here or here, but when it is cold, cold, cold, and there are so many things still to see, and so little time really in the grand scheme of things, time really is of the essence. What was happening in Ushuaia was that it was a long weekend, public holiday in remembrance of the Falklands war (my English traveling companions kept there identities to themselves as much as possible - especially as the Argentineans consider the Falklands - Maldinas - Islands still to be very much theirs). However although it was holiday there, I was able to call other parts of Argentina which was not on holiday and managed to organise a flight to Calafate with LADE, the military airline. It was a bit of an ordeal sorting it but when Monday came and I had my ticket in my hot hand, all was forgotten as I walked out onto the tarmac and saw in front of me...

 
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Family shots. Sis Julie and her b'friend Brad ...more pics on the next page...
 
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leaving on a jet plane...

I'm leaving on a jet plane, (tomorrow), don't know when I'll be back again…

Arghhhhhh… just getting a little bit scared and anxious now, excitement taking a back seat till I wake up tomorrow and it is real. Having been surrounded by family and friends for the last 2 ½ months in NZ, I'm having a few issues about going off on my own, by myself, all on my lonesome… yeah, yeah, I know, I will be fine…

In the last glorious month of my time here at home, I have been cruising back and forth btwn Auckland and Mum's place in the Bay of Islands, and have seen a lot of beautiful people and places. As soon as I arrived up north Uncle Andrew launched a kayak trip out to…

 
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The last three weeks in sun drenched South Island, NZ

I think maybe I have been blessed. You wouldn't believe it unless you were here, but in the 1 & a 1/2 months that I have been in NZ it has only rained for 2 and 1/2 days!!! Wow it has been absolutely glorious sunny, cloudless sky days most of the time, and even if it thinks it is going to be overcast, by the time the day sets in for real - the sun comes out in force again. I have acquired a decent tan without even trying :o) Queenstown which can be quite cold, was exceptionally good, and after previously planning only to spend 4 days there, ended up staying a week instead.

I stayed with my good friend Vicky, who runs the horse and carriage business in Queenstown, (which by the way she has on the market, so if you know anyone who might be interested - let me know). Relaxing during the day, and keeping Vic company as she worked in the evening, we managed to go out a couple of times and rark up the town. I got my sister Emmeline a doozy...

 
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11th March 2003

Well the secret is out. Pretty much everyone I wanted to surprise by my visit back to NZ now knows I'm in the country. It has been wonderful seeing everyone's expressions, and very rewarding too. My sister Emme is the last one to surprise and I will be going down to Queenstown this Thursday to do just that. I'm currently staying with my other sister from Mum's side of the family in Riccarton, Christchurch, where she is flatting with her boyfriend and 3 other students. Weird being back in a student flat, beer paraphenalia all over the place...

Well the trip from Levin down to Nelson was successful in that I caught the train to Wellington, managed to get myself and bags around the corner to the airport bus, and got to the airport with tonnes of time to spare. I had carefully packed my bags, as I knew I was going to get charged excess luggage, and I had put all the heaviest things in my hand luggage - sneaky huh! Well not sneaky enough...

 
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From Day 8 to Day 21

I've been in New Zealand for three days now and it's a whirlwind of pleasure, tiredness, emotion, laughs, sun, surf, sand and simple pleasures; like the sounds of the cicadas every hot day, or the pounding surf on the beach, or a smile and 'hi' from the stranger walking past you.

I was whisked from the airport straight out to Pauanui (on the Coromandel Coast of the North Island) to say happy hellos to Jackies family then off to be re-united with some long lost pals from my Uni days - all people I haven't seen for some 7-8 years. BBQ's, beers, catching up and crashed out in my borrowed tent by midnight. The very next day (Feb 13th) it was time to explore the surrounding area and a bunch of us went to

 
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The first seven days

Arrived in fine form (considering the mad last London day I had) from my first ever Business Class flight, oh the luxury (mind you I did get stung £105 for excess baggage and have had to re-assess the whole packing situation. However upon arrival in the terminal at Bangkok there is a whoosh of heat and the smell of dust and fumes in the heat infiltrates your senses. Chinese New Year, so immigration was flooded with Asians on holiday, but at least I didn’t get any awkward questions at the desk. God my bag really is a monster. Accosted by a taxi scout while withdrawing cash (mental note - you are now a backpacker - not a business woman - luxury is unaffordable) One hour later and £10 lighter I’m at my much boasted about 5* hotel (yeah well their wall plaque says 4*’s). And as soon as I am in my room I switch on the TV just for noise because I have all of a sudden had an overwhelming sense of loneliness come over me, and while I’m down in the dining room alone writing this (don’t want to just sit there and stare out the window) I realise why you can’t travel around on your own in posh hotels, you don’t meet the right people, you hardly meet people at all (unless they are trying to pick you up - NO, NO ONE DID).

Day 2. Got up at 1:30am GMT motivated to move only by the fact

 
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1 month to go....

Hello my chums, I woke somewhat bewildered this morning, having slept too much and having dreamt about nonsense while sticking the fingernails of my left hand so deeply into my palm, there are still marks left there after 3.5 hours, but most to my bewilderment is that it is the 3rd of January, which means I have exactly a month until I will be off again on my next big adventure, and well it kinda freaked me out. I have all these, how, where, when and WHY questions starting to occupy my thoughts more than just the odd fleeting here and there. I have to justify them and settle my mind by thinking that A) I wanted to do this so bad for the last two years, that it is just last minute nerves, and B) worst case scenario is that if I don't like it and I just don't do it... But well you all know me - and one thing I am not is a quitter - so without too much of a doubt I should be dancing in 'The Carnival' in February 2004 - looking for a break away, pencil in Feb 23-24 2004 to come see me shake my booty doing the samba on the street in Rio.

 
 
 
Chilly in Chile

Chilly to the point of new goose down coats having there debut outings above 4300 meters with geysers and lakes about, but even out of an evening for dinner, the down must go out. It started off really quite warm in Santiago, where I walked about the city in shorts and t-shirts much to the amazement of the locals (no one there was wearing shorts!) as it was really quite warm, specially for hiking about and up hills. Out on the coast the good weather continued, clear warm days, but this was not the norm for this time of the year. Enjoying the sun and thinking well, at least the further north I go, the warmer I get, right? Closer to the equator and all – ha ha ...

 
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***Diary December***

Dec. 10, 02 - Jingle bells, jingle bells, 'tis the season to be jolly. Nothing jolly about the whether in London at the mo, unless you count red noses. Although there have been sightings of the odd snowflake around today I hear, and that always makes me excited still, no matter how cold it is. ((And it is COLD!!)) Have still been managing to fill my days, although with more mundane stuff like housework, and today I made Apple Tarts: how bloody domesticated!!

I've been able to join Mark's gym for free for 12 days, so I making the most of that, it is a real flash'un. With big flat screens up and on all the exercise machines you can plug in your headphones and listen to one of the tv channels or music while you sweat. Has a pool and aerobics and yoga classes etc, plus salon and beauty clinic…

Apart from the fact that I cant believe how time flies even when you aren't doing anything much, that's all folks. Later gaters XXX

 
 
 
Diary November 29th 2002
Well, well, the end of the month is upon us. The end of a month that could have been much like most others, with two conferences scheduled for the last two weeks, making it maybe slightly busier than others, but has ended up being a bit more like an early holiday with the sudden event of my redundancy on Wednesday the 13th. Honestly I balled my eyes out, I was devastated, what was I going to do with myself. I had planned on leaving next Feb, but nothing was set in concrete and that was still months away, what was I going to do, what to do, what…..  
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Diary November 2002
Hello my lovelies,
Well it is only the beginning of November, so I do not have too much to say, except that god it gets dark here early now. 4.30PM and that's it man, the day is OVER!
Barcelona at the end of the month for my last conference for the year - anyone want to come with? Weekend of the 30th Nov - let me know :o)
That's my last conference for the year (Barcelona), then it is a straight run up to Xmas. Don't expect there'll be much exciting to happen this month as the work piles up and up till the end big bang.
However I say Jackie and Grant (uni) last Friday, excellent to see them it was, we drank bottles and bottles of good NZ Sav Blanc, in the popular and hip NZ tapas bar called The Providores - any homesick kiwis in London, this place comes highly recommended, but bring all your pennies (link just to my left)
Click on the 'More...' button for the rest 
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Diary
Man it’s the end of October cometh!!
I have finally put a logo on my website. I had designed one long ago but it got lost - thanks Ed! - and well anyway - I used my skills to design this one in 30 minutes flat!! Drawing with a moust aint easy! But hey, well Emme, Aimee or Julz - if any of you guys can do any better, or if you want to design buttons to replace the ones beside the logo - then be my guests!! I would love to have all of you design sth for my/our site.
Click on 'More...' for full total goss on whats going on right now! Love and hugs….maria  
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